Here are answers to some frequently asked questions about our transmissions.
Always flush your transmission lines and cooler. If you don’t have a flushing system, use a cooler line flush from your local parts store and blow lines out with compressed air. Flush lines/coolers until the fluid coming out is clean and free of contaminants.
After install is complete, add eight quarts of Dexron/Mercon III transmission fluid then start the truck with transmission in neutral to circulate fluid then fill to correct level. Depending on your pan capacity, a complete system holds 16-20 quarts total. Always read both sides of the dipstick when checking fluid level and the lowest reading is the accurate level. Put transmission in drive-neutral-reverse, then back to neutral and check the fluid level again. Once you are sure the correct level is achieved, you are ready for a test drive.
3. Test Drive.
Make sure the transmission is starting in first gear. If the transmission wiring harness is not making a good connection with the valve body, it can cause a limp mode where you get second or third gear starts. A faulty governor pressure solenoid or transducer can also cause this problem. IF YOU GET SECOND OR THIRD GEAR STARTS, DO NOT CONTINUE. Immediate internal damage can happen if the transmission goes into limp mode and you continue to drive it.
4. Double Check.
Assuming transmission is working correctly, drive medium throttle through the gears to assure that all gears are functioning properly. Once confirmed, double check for leaks and proper fluid level, then you are good to go.
5. One Thousand Mile Service.
After the first thousand miles on the transmission, you need to do a fluid and filter change to flush out all the assembly lube used in the rebuild process. Also, make sure the second gear band doesn’t need adjustment after the break-in period. There should be a 1/4 - 5/16 inch gap between the apply lever and the second gear servo apply pin or 72 in/lbs and back off two full turns for proper second gear band adjustment.
6. Regular Service and Maintenance.
Service intervals of 25,000 miles will assure a long, healthy transmission. On high horsepower trucks that see regular competition, it is recommended to change fluid every spring and fall.
List of Recommended Torque Specs
Cooler Line Fittings 13 ft/lbs
Pan to Case Bolts 15 ft/lbs
Output Speed Sensor 20 ft/lbs
PSI Test Port Plugs 10 ft/lbs
Valve Body to Case 100 in/lbs
Filter Bolts 35 in/lbs
Converter Installation Instructions
Be sure to slide the converter onto the input shaft completely.
When installing the converter, look for the tabs behind the pump seal on the transmission. Those tabs need to fit in the slots on the converter. You will usually feel two “clicks” (one when the splines of the shaft are aligned and one when the pump tabs go into the slots of the converter hub). Once it is fully on the input shaft, the face of the converter should be sticking out of the bell housing ¾” – 7/8”.
When installing the transmission bell housing bolts in the truck, always fully seat the transmission against the adapter plate before tightening the bolts. If force is needed to make the bell housing meet the adapter plate, there is a problem. DO NOT FORCE IT WITH THE BOLTS!
Once the bell housing bolts are tight, you should have a small (approximately 1/8”) gap between the converter and the flex plate. Additionally, you should be able to spin the converter by hand separate from the flex plate. If you are able to spin the converter and have a small gap, you have properly installed the converter.